Selecting the right cosmetic raw materials is based on three factors: the intended use of the product, the skin needs of the target group, and the applicable safety regulations. Raw material choices determine the product’s efficacy, safety, shelf life, and marketability, making them the single most important decision in cosmetic product formulation. Below, we cover the key questions that everyone developing a cosmetic product should be familiar with.
What different raw material categories are used in a cosmetic product?
A cosmetic product typically uses six raw material categories: emollients, emulsifiers, humectants, preservatives, active ingredients, and excipients. Each category fulfills its own function in the formulation, and a functional product requires a balance of all categories.
- Emollients soften the skin and give the product its feel. Typical examples include vegetable oils, waxes, and esters.
- Emulsifiers bind water and oil together, which is essential for creams and emulsions.
- Humectants such as glycerol and hyaluronic acid bind moisture to the skin and improve the product’s hydration efficacy.
- Preservatives prevent microbial growth and extend the product’s shelf life.
- Active ingredients are the functional core of the product: vitamins, plant extracts, peptides, and acids that produce the desired skincare effect.
- Excipients such as buffers, colorants, and fragrances complete the product’s properties and user experience.
The balance between raw material categories varies depending on the product form. A serum, cream, and cleansing product each require different formulation, even if they partly share the same ingredients.
How is the safety and regulatory compliance of a raw material ensured?
The safety of a cosmetic raw material is ensured by verifying its compliance with EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. The regulation defines prohibited and restricted substances, and the manufacturer must ensure that every raw material meets these requirements before it is used in a product.
Practical compliance work involves several steps. Specifications, safety data sheets, and certificates where necessary must be requested from the supplier. The INCI name of the raw material must be checked in the EU CosIng database, which shows the usage restrictions and permitted concentrations of the substance. Certified raw materials in cosmetics, such as Ecocert- or COSMOS-certified substances, make it easier to demonstrate compliance, especially in the natural cosmetics segment.
Ultimate responsibility for product safety lies with the responsible person, who commissions an independent safety assessment before placing the product on the market. This assessment covers all raw materials in the formulation and their interactions.
What is the difference between synthetic and natural cosmetic raw materials?
Natural cosmetic raw materials originate from plant, animal, or mineral sources and are processed as little as possible. Synthetic raw materials are produced chemically, which allows for more precise quality control and more consistent purity. Neither is automatically a better or safer choice.
Strengths and challenges of natural raw materials
Natural cosmetic raw materials, such as vegetable oils, plant extracts, and compounds derived from essential oils, appeal to consumers and support an ecological profile. However, their composition can vary depending on the harvest season, origin, and processing method, which places demands on quality control. Ecological cosmetic raw materials often require a certified supply chain in order to substantiate environmental claims.
Strengths and challenges of synthetic raw materials
Synthetic raw materials offer consistent quality, long shelf life, and often better cost efficiency. Some synthetic ingredients are also a more environmentally responsible choice than their natural counterparts, whose production may burden ecosystems. The challenge is consumers’ growing interest in natural ingredients, which can affect the product’s marketability.
How is a raw material’s suitability tested before production?
A raw material’s suitability is tested before production by first conducting small-scale formulation trials, in which the raw material’s compatibility with other ingredients, the product’s stability at different temperatures, and skin friendliness are evaluated.
The testing phase typically proceeds as follows:
- Compatibility testing: Checking whether raw materials react harmfully with each other or alter each other’s properties.
- Stability testing: The formulation is stored under varying conditions, such as different temperatures and light exposure, to see whether the product remains unchanged.
- Microbial challenge testing: Verifying that the preservation system works with sufficient efficacy.
- Skin tolerance assessment: Testing the safety of the raw material and the finished formulation on the skin using appropriate methods.
Only after these stages is it worthwhile to move on to larger-scale production. A thorough testing phase saves significant costs, as problems are cheaper to fix at the laboratory stage than in the finished product.
When should you turn to a specialized raw material supplier?
It is worth turning to a specialized raw material supplier when access to a wide product range is needed, technical expertise is required to support formulation, or assurance is needed that the raw materials meet industry certification and regulatory requirements. The more demanding the product, the more important the supplier’s expertise.
A specialized supplier adds value particularly in the following situations:
- A new product is being developed and help is needed in selecting and combining raw materials.
- Certification for natural cosmetics or ecological raw materials is being pursued.
- Cost-effective alternatives to current raw materials are being sought without compromising quality.
- Assurance of supply chain reliability and raw material traceability is desired.
Celego specializes in exactly this: the company offers the cosmetics industry natural, ecological, and certified raw materials as well as expert support for product formulation. Long experience and an extensive supplier network mean that the customer receives both the right raw materials and the know-how to make use of them.
If you are developing a new cosmetic product or want to reformulate an existing formulation, contact Celego’s experts. We help you find the raw materials suited to your product quickly and cost-effectively.